THE FASHION DICTIONARY FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2009-10

A
Afghan coats - Paul & Joe, House of Holland, Maison Martin Margiela, Julien Macdonald, Givenchy, Lanvin. They were on the front row, too -and if you don't want to be smothered, just go for OTT hairy arms or a (what looked like) human hair collar.

B
Book bags - Fendi, Lanvin, Giambattista Valli. Chic - they fit enough make-up and your baby laptop.
Black - is the new black. There's no getting away from it.
Belted dresses - everywhere; Lanvin and Hermes did them best.

D
Dinner jackets - Yves Saint Laurent, Costume National, Hussein Chalayan, Balenciaga, Prada, Stella McCartney, Balmain, Nina Ricci, Miu Miu.

E
Eighties - Vena Cava, Ashley Isham, Marc Jacobs, Alexander Wang, Basso & Brooke, Giorgio Armani, Emanuel Ungaro, Ashish, Betsey Johnson, Julien Macdonald, Gucci, Balmain. Nicest at Dries Van Noten and Chloe which referenced late Seventies, early Eighties rather than the later years we all try to forget.

H
Harem pants - Noir/Black Noir, Stella McCartney, Alexander Wang, Chloe, Christian Dior.

I
Icons - Marilyn at Dolce & Gabbana; Elizabeth I and Henry VIII at William Tempest; Elizabeth, Countess of Devon at Burberry Prorsum; Maria Callas at D&G.

K
Knits - the bigger the better - Pringle of Scotland, Topshop, Alexander McQueen, Missoni, Julien Macdonald, Giles.

L
Leather leggings - Hermes, Tory Burch, Jean Paul Gaultier, Gucci, Pucci.

M
Mohair - House of Holland, Lanvin, Louise Gray, Giambattista Valli, Jill Stuart, Giles, Charles Anastase, Paul Costelloe, Diane von Furstenberg, Zero Maria Cornejo.

N
Navy - Louis Vuitton, Jenni Kayne, Fendi, Balenciaga, Moschino, Trovata, Tommy Hilfiger

O
One-shouldered - Alexander Wang, Derek Lam, Marchesa, Versace, Chloe.

P
Pink - the full spectrum: both Prada and Gucci's tickets were a rich shade of plum.

Pink - the full spectrum: both Prada and Gucci's tickets were a rich shade of plum.

R
Red and black - Danielle Scutt, Ashley Isham, Erdem, Eley, Kishimoto, Marios Schwab, Alexander McQueen, DKNY, Erin Fetherston, Aquilano e Rimondi, Andrew Gn, Moschino.

S
Super shoulders - Stella McCartney, Victoria Beckham, Karen Walker, Jonathan Saunders, Balmain, Zac Posen, Nicole Farhi, D&G, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Nina Ricci, all of New York, Central Saint Martins, Julien Macdonald, Jaeger London.
Sequinned legs - TopshopUnique, Nicole Farhi, Viktor & Rolf.
Studded dresses - Versace, Lanvin, Balmain, Sophia Kokosalaki, Loewe, Yves Saint Laurent, Guy Laroche, Christian Dior.

V
Velvet - Emporio Armani, Prada, Chloe, Lanvin, Jean Paul Gaultier, Christopher Kane.

X
X-rated - Jean Paul Gaultier, Hussein Chalayan, Emilio Pucci, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, YSL.

Y
Yes-girls -YSL's sexy secretaries, Louis Vuitton's accommodating cocktail waitresses, Eley Kishimoto's flight attendants.

Z
Zebra stripes - Issa, Ashish, Balmain, Miu Miu.

Pierre Sanchez, Juliane Damon-Scowcroft